Tuesday, 30 June 2015

Narmadha Parikrama


A small book  [ “Walking with the Immortals – The Narmadha Parikrama”,  published by  Vivekananda Trust, Arunachal Pradesh]  that I read recently gave  heart-warming insights into the some aspects of India’s cultural ethos which, I believe, has been carried on for centuries if not millenia. In modern terms this could be termed a ‘Spiritual-ecological adventure’. The  book is written by  Capt.K.K.Venkatraman --  a close family friend--  who undertook the  parikrama  in 1987. The author’ style of writing  is straight and unassuming and brings out the gruelling nature of the practice which was at the same time a rich, rewarding  and enjoyable experience for him.
About the practice of Parikrama
1.       It is the spiritual  pilgrimage practice of clockwise circumambulation of the Narmada river.
This involves walking  from the point of origin of Narmada river [ at Amarkantak, Shahdol district MadyaPradesh] along the south bank  of the river  to the point of union with the Arabian sea [ at Vimleshwar, Bharuch district, Gujarat]; crossing the river and walking back along the north bank to the point of origin .
2.       The  total distance  to be walked is  2600 km, considering the up & down journey,The river  flows for  1070 Km in MP, 75 Km in Maharashtra; and 205 Km in Gujarat. In some stretches, the landscape along the Narmada are thickly forested mountain slopes;40 major tributaries join it and would have to be crossed . It is common practice to go in groups of 4- 5 persons in view of the long distances, forested route and other difficulties.
3.       Narmadha is considered a very sacred river. There are many major religious centers along the river. For example Amarkantak, Omkareshwar, Garudeshwar for Hindus; Mandav for muslims; Barwani for Jains. This being a spiritual pilgrimage, certain disciplines are expected to be adhered to:
·         Walking barefoot;  walk only between sunrise and and sunset
·         Cannot carry any  money or  valuables with you
·         Should  live on the food/ food articles offered by local populace or sought as ‘biksha’  from them. One is allowed to ask biksha not more than 3 times. If food is not made available within this, one has to forego food for that session.
·         Observe a vow of celibacy; Sleep on mat/ sheet/floor; should not shave or cut hair
·         No dirtying of river water; no use of soap or oil
·         Be kind to all; no harsh words; do not lose temper.
4.       Traditionally the parikrama is completed in 3 years-3 months-13 days.  The parikramavasis spend a few hours every day in the daytime to cook their food. They halt at holy places along the way for a few days. During the 4 monsoon months - the chaturmasya- one is expected to camp in one place.
5.       Parikrama practice is believed to have been started by Sage Markandeya. There is a firm belief that the chiranjeevis in our puranic lore –parasurama, hunuman, vibhishana, ashwathama, mahabali, kripacharya, vyasa are continuously doing the Narmada parikrama and protecting the Parikramavasis( hence the book title).
6.       The parikrama pathway is generally along the bank of the river. For food one can go to the nearby village  and seek biksha. The villagers along the route  feed the parikramavasis with reverence; it is considered as an opportunity to serve God; Normally the  groups carry cooking utensils with them, the  villagers or charitable organizations provide items like rice, pulses, wheat flour, oil, chilli, salt ;
7.       As part of the whole process, the following has to be done: at the source point collect Narmada water in a container and always carry it with you during the trip. Prayer is to be offered to this water everyday morning and evening. When crossing over from south bank to the north bank at the mouth of the river, empty half  of the water in the container into the river and fill up again with water from the river mouth. After reaching the source point again, empty half of the water in the container and fill up again with water from the source.
8.       After completing the parikrama, on reaching Amarkantak, one has to visit  Jwaleshwar temple and go round  Mother’s Garden before  entering Narmada temple to reach the Point of Origin. Then one has to visit Omkareshwar temple and offer the water in the container to the Shivalinga deity there. This will mark the completion of the exercise.
About Capt.K.K.Venkatraman
1.       Was captain in the Kumaon regiment (6th battalion)
2.       Saw action  in the western front during 1971 Indo-Pak war
3.       After release from army, Honorary worker at Vivekananda Kendra, Kanyakumari
4.       During the period 1983 – 1993 was located in Arunachal Pradesh; involved in the administration of the English medium schools being run in the interior areas of the state by  Vivekananda Kendra, Kanyakumari
5.       Currently  does voluntary service at Ramakrishna Matha, Chennai.
6.        Is a great fan of hindi film music (1945-1978 vintage)
Author’s parikrama journey
·         Decided to undertake the parikrama alone rather than in a group. The idea was to avoid the casual talk inevitable in a group  and keep the mind on spiritual matters.
·         Carried two small shoulder bags with him to hold the minimum essential items like  clothing, a mat for sleeping on, blanket and  prayer book. It also included a few special items like notebook & pencil with a blade for sharpening,  a small stock of postcards and inland letters. An important item was an 1.5 metre long wooden stick to identify and avoid loose sand while crossing tributaries and to help in chasing away dogs.
·         Keeping his work commitments in mind,  he planned to complete the whole exercise in about 4 months, implying an average  walk of  about 20 Km everyday and started the parikrama on October 26. 1987.
·         The daily routine
o   Start walking  at sunrise  after finishing ablutions. No bath.  Normally will get tea   from  a village resident before he leaves. Walk for 10 to 12 km by noon.
o   Around noon stop at a village. People there normally offer raw items like rice oil etc  for cooking. Since KKV was not conversant with cooking, people would happily offer to serve him cooked food. Finish bath, wash and dry the used clothes, have food.
o   He totally avoided post-lunch rest. Even the talking with the hosts was done standing for fear that sitting down would tempt one to lie down and then take a nap etc.
o   Cover another 10-12 km in the afternoon till sunset.
o   Around sunset halt at wayside mandap or temple on the bank of the river. The village folk generally visit the river bank to know if any Parikramavasi is halting for the night. They enquire about their food and arrange to feed them if necessary.
o    After food there would be conversation with the village folk, with them  evincing keen interest to know  where he was from, what was his work etc. Even though they did not have formal education,  they talked about our epics, efficacy of devotion, surrender to God etc. Often he would join in the pooja, satsang in the village
o   At the end of the day, make notes on the day’s events, distance covered, villages visited, people met etc.
·         A sample of  experiences
·         On day 18 morning he declined an  invitation for lunch from a person because he had just covered 3 km and lunch time was a few hours away. The person, who was headmaster of a school located 8 miles ahead on the parikrama route , insisted that he would bring  lunch for him  to the school  and requested him to stop  for lunch at the school after his morning trip. So he had a warm welcome at the school and  had lunch with the staff. At their request he addressed the children, talking to them about Arunachal Pradesh, the Brahmaputra river, their Vivekananda Kendra schools in Arunachal. When he took leave and left, the  teachers, HM and  students walked along  with him for quite a distance.
·         On another day, around noon  he was passing thru a village. His first two requests for biksha  were unsuccessful. He chose his person for the last chance at biksha very carefully – a house with a small provision shop in the front and an elderly man sitting in the shop. When asked for biksha, the shopkeeper offered to give raw food items. When he confessed that he could not cook and requested for cooked food, the shopkeeper lost his cool  and said such people should not be undertaking parikrama.  The author apologized and left. But soon enough he saw a woman running  and calling out to him. Behind her was the shopkeeper, obviously her husband. They apologized profusely and requested him to honour them  by having lunch at their house. KKV had mentally made up his mind to go without  food  that day as punishment  for not being able to adhere to the rule of self-cooking. However he felt that couple were afraid of incurring his curse for turning him away and agreed to their hospitality.
·          At one stage the river flows thru a 100 km forest stretch. In this stretch the author joined a small group of parikramavasis to have safety in numbers. The poor forest inhabitants had the habit of stopping such travelers, taking away all their belongings including the clothes worn and leaving  them in minimum garments. To handle this, an informal free luggage safekeeping service was available. The parikramavasi leaves his belongings at the last village before entering the forest. He will be able to collect them back when, on the  return sojourn along the north bank of the river, he reaches the spot opposite to this villages, he sends a note thru the boatman who runs a regular ferry service here. There was also an arrangement whereby a flour mill owner in the village offered an empty gunny bag to each traveler for wearing after his dhoti is taken away.  On day 46 they entered the forest. The group was stopped by the locals and asked to give their possessions. Surprisingly, the author was spared, his dhoti was not taken away and only the blade and matches in his possession were taken. For the group, the next few nights  they had to pass in the forested region were very hard and trying. There were no temples/ mandaps and they had to stay in the open,  that too without their blankets. The cold kept them awake most of the time and they tried to occupy themselves singing bhajans.
·         On the day they emerged from the forested area, they did not find any village where they could seek food. In the afternoon, from across the river a couple of people called aloud to say that they would bring cooking utensils and food items and asked for the number of people to be fed. This arrangement was from the Dongre Maharaj ashram from inside the forest . All the stuff arrived after about an hour and soon enough they all had a hearty meal after more than 24 hours.

On day 130 reached Ramakrishna Math at Amarkantak  after covering more than 2500 km and completed the parikrama

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